COLUMBUS, Ohio – “Gentlemen, start your engines.”

Those are words you’re likely to hear at a motor speedway, not at any farm. Still, farmers are no doubt anxious to hop on their tractors and get out into the fields when the weather breaks and the ground begins to thaw.

Though it’s February, there is much farmers can do, such as getting their finances in order, making repairs to structures on the property, repairing old circuitry in the barn, making plans for purchasing seed and so much more. Experts will tell you that no other key piece of machinery needs special attention than the tractor.

“When it comes to your farm or ranch operation, your equipment is one of your largest investments,” said J.E. Cadle, marketing manager with Case IH. “Regular maintenance may be the best way to keep your equipment, such as the tractor, up and running. Using the slower winter months for chores is an ideal time to perform the routine maintenance your equipment needs.”

Robert Stwalley, Purdue Extension specialist and assistant clinical professor of agricultural and biological engineering, urged producers to get a jump start on vehicle maintenance, especially tractors.

“Early preparation for spring planting is time well-invested,” he said. “Instead of wishing for sunnier days and warmer weather, the wise farmer used the gray and cold times to be ready to hit the fields running when the seasons change. Well-maintained equipment is also much safer than equipment in disrepair.”

Cadle said proper maintenance of any tractor starts in the late fall.

“Taking the time to store a tractor properly in the winter can give farmers a leg up on spring tuneups,” Cadle said. “A lot of it starts with your fluids when you put the tractor away until the spring. You’d want to make sure the fluids are changed and the oil is changes if it’s due.

“Another item that goes overlooked is tire air pressure. If tires sit with low pressure all winter it could be bad for the tires. You want to make sure the tires are full for the winter and brought back to operating levels in the spring.”

For those who have decided to wait until the winter months or early spring to check on the tractor, experts like Cadle and Stwalley offer a list of 13 items to check on any tractor:

• Fuel – If the tractor has been idle for the winter, the gasoline in the tank might have gone flat, unless a stabilizer was added. Several contaminants can work their way into the fuel system over the winter. Moisture can condense on the inside of the fuel tank, which contaminates the fuel and can cause rust on the inside of the tank, which will eventually flake off and block the fuel flow.

• Battery – Cold weather takes a serious toll on batteries, especially if they are allowed to discharge. If it won’t start, put a charger on it for a few hours. Check the battery cable connectors on both ends to make sure the connections are secure. Check the hot (positive) cable anywhere it touches the frame to make sure the insulation is good at that point, otherwise it can short out.

• Fluides – At a very minimum, check all the fluid levels – engine oil, hydraulic oil, radiator and gear oil. There might be some hidden gear oil fill points for steering and the front hubs on a four-wheel-drive tractor. Change fluids as recommended by the manufacturer.

“You can go up to 1,500 hours between transmission fluid changes, and up to 3,600 hours before needing to change coolants,” Cadle said, “so getting those levels right before you need to use the tractor is just a good overall practice.”

The fluids themselves have changed to accommodate modern tractors, Cadle added. “Every engine oil isn’t the same now that we’ve gone to stricter emissions,” he said. “When you’re running in a tractor today likely isn’t an oil you can run in an older tractor. We’ve got better additives and overall better products available.”

 • Filters – Gasoline engines, whether carbureted or injected, have small orifices that are easily clogged. The fuel filter is your first line of defense against poor performance and expensive repairs. Change filters during a tractor checkup at least once per year when you change the oil.

• Hydraulics – Check hydraulic oil level, usually with a dip stick. If you’ve changed to a lighter hydraulic oil for the winter, replace it with a summer oil. Check hydraulic hoses for cracking and leaks. Cycle the hydraulics to make sure they move smoothly and that the cylinders will stay in the extended position without drifting down.

• Electrical – Give the wiring a visual inspection. Sometimes mice or squirrels get inside and chew on the insulation. A nest or cache of acorns under the hood is a good indication that the tractor has served as a rodent residence over the winter. Check all lights, and make sure the alternator gauge shows a normal charge when the engine is at operating speed.

• Belts – Check the alternator and fan belts for cracks, and feel them for tension. Tighten if necessary, and replace if the belt is questionable.

• Grease – Manuals indicate all lubrication points and the recommended grease. If you can’t force grease through a zerk (grease fitting) replace it.

• Tires – Check tire pressure and add air if needed. Look the tires over for worn tread, splits or other signs of problems.

• Bearings – If the tractor is a two-wheel-drive, jack up each front wheel, safety it with a block or jack stand, and check the bearings. Remove the wheel and the bearing nut. Check the bearing to make sure it’s intact. If in good condition, apply a liberal dose of bearing grease and re-assemble the wheel. If the bearing is hard to turn or falls apart, replace it. The number stamped on it will make it easy to find a replacement.

• ROPS (rollover protective structures) – The tractor is the leading cause of death on a farm. The most frequent causes of tractor-related deaths are side and real overturns. Make sure all nuts and bolts on the roll cage are tight. Scan the weld for cracks. Make sure the seat belt works properly and fits snugly.

• Brakes – Check the hand brake for stopping and holding power. If the tractor is equipped with separate left and right brakes, test them individually to make sure they both work and have the same braking effect. A tractor with a working brake on only one side is at risk for a rollover.